The world of fashion is a vibrant tapestry, constantly being rewoven with new ideas, and the Fall 2023 fashion shows in Europe were no exception. As the curtains rose on the runways of Milan and beyond, a symphony of styles, colors, and concepts unfolded, sparking conversations and inspiring fashion enthusiasts around the globe.
The Prada Paradox
One of the most talked – about shows in Milan was Prada. The collection seemed to divide opinions, yet in that division, there was a certain magic. Many were immediately smitten, while others took a moment to fully absorb the creative vision. Prada’s designs have always been known for their complexity, often requiring time for the audience to truly understand the underlying ideas. This time, however, the collection was more accessible, an instant love for many.
The new – found structure in the designs, perhaps leaning towards a more masculine aesthetic, was a notable departure. This shift is likely due to the influence of Raf Simons, who now co – creates the collections with Prada. Raf’s touch is distinct, harsher or at least heavier compared to Prada’s signature style. But where Raf truly shines is in his use of color. Together, Prada and Raf create a dynamic partnership, although it’s understandable that some die – hard Prada fans might find the change jarring. For years, they’ve admired the delicate and faint illusions Prada masterfully constructed, which balanced her untamed creative fire. The new collection, while exciting, represents a departure from that familiar aesthetic.
The Rise of Matthieu Blazy
Matthieu Blazy, who has been at the helm of Bottega Veneta for three seasons, also made a significant impact. Taking over from Daniel Lee (now at Burberry), Blazy brings a wealth of experience. Having worked with Phoebe Philo at Celine and spending over a decade alongside Raf Simons and Peter Mulier (now at Alaia), Blazy’s designs are a culmination of diverse influences. Peter Mulier, in particular, has been making waves in the industry. His shoes have become the talk of the town, and up close, his clothes are nothing short of magical. It won’t be long before the well – heeled private school moms are flaunting Alaia at their cocktail parties.
Editorial vs. Commercial Success
When first delving into the world of fashion show coverage, understanding the difference between editorial and commercial success can be a challenge. Editorial successes are like works of art, communicating poetic and often esoteric messages that ignite the creativity of fashion writers. These collections are a playground for ideas, making writing about them a true pleasure. On the other hand, commercial successes, while perhaps less provocative in their concepts, offer a practical glimpse into the upcoming trends. They build on what the general public already loves to wear, providing inspiration for the everyday fashion – conscious individual.
Commercial collections also have the power to evoke emotion, particularly a sense of feminine community. Picture girlfriends chatting about which looks they’d wear to different occasions, bonding over their shared love of fashion. However, it’s important to note that most people outside the fashion industry, even those who enjoy shopping and following shows, don’t pay much attention to the deeper significance of a collection. This realization is both surprising and not. During the days of writing for Man Repeller, Fashion Week was the highlight of the year, filled with high energy, stress, and inspiration. But focusing too much on Fashion Week often led to a drop in traffic, a reminder that the audience wasn’t always as immersed in the fashion world as insiders.
Fashion shows, perhaps, were never truly intended for those outside the industry and dedicated fans. Social media has blurred these lines, but maybe a course correction is underway. These days, fashion show coverage is less prominent in feeds, only appearing when actively sought out.
Fashion as Self – Expression
Despite the divide between the industry and the general public, the allure of fashion shows remains strong. They offer a unique form of communication, a way to express complex thoughts, feelings, and even pain through the medium of clothing. Collections have the power to help us step back and make sense of our emotions, providing context and inspiration. In the end, fashion is not just about clothes; it’s about finding ourselves, expressing our identities, and connecting with a world of creativity and imagination.
